Moschofilero is sometimes called Greece’s answer to Gewurztraminer – it’s floral and scented, with aromas of roses and sweet, muscat grapes. Like the best aromatic wines it keeps that sweet fruit in check with a refreshing palate, so that it smells sweet and tastes dry. It’s the perfect wine to have with salads and lighter dishes.
I ADORE this wine. It’s mad. Imagine a Chablis that’s been to the gym and then gone hiking in the woods. A Bear Grylls of a wine. The steely, citrus tang of Assyrtiko has an added savoury complexity and depth. It’s still got that focus and clarity of the grape, but with more complexity. Perfect with grilled shellfish, baked whole fish or Pacific Rim dishes.
Let’s get the pronunciation things over with first. ‘ay-or-YIH-tiko’ is the ‘St George’ grape and makes dense, dark, bramble and black-fruity wines, lifted by brighter red fruit aromas and a herbal, savoury edge. It’s a fine, elegant wine too, and one of the great wines of the Med. I have enjoyed this with steaks and grills and mushroom dishes.
Anyone who enjoys white Bordeaux will (a) love this wine and (b) be utterly astonished by this wine. It shares the same production idea and half the same grapes, but with the eye-opening refreshment of Assyrtiko. Look for a peach and mineral fruit with lovely vanilla spice. Richly flavoured fish dishes and creamy sauces are perfect matches.
There’s a wonderful spirit of experimentation among Greek producers, like matching the familiar zest of Sauvignon with adventurous aromatic and heady aromas of Malagousia. This is a richly textured wine, a foodie not a drinkie. Herby roast chicken or fish stew are perfect combinations.