There’s a story that the best soils in Pouilly-Fuisse are enriched by the long-dead carcasses of animals driven off the crags above by stone-age hunters. I prefer to think that the honeysuckle aroma and sweet lemon fruit comes from the natural sun-trap vineyards. 2014 was one of the great modern years for white Burgundy. I’d have this with cooked shellfish or herby roasted chicken.
This is just beginning to emerge from a gawky youth. A wine like this seems expensive compared to Cote du Rhone down the road. But it is a tenth the price of its real peers in Bordeaux or Burgundy. It has a complex, fragrant, sweet nose and dark raspberry palate with a beguiling, graphite pencil character that you’ll talk about all week. Serve it simply with dark game.