Benedict and Stephane Tissot Les Gravieres Chardonnay 2012, Jura, France
We often hear people say they’re not keen on Chardonnay, yet it’s like Plasticine; it takes the shape the winemaker gives it. Here it’s balletic and graceful, with quince and acacia aromas, restrained but lingering. Take the plainest fish, cook it simply so that this wine can be the star of the show. It’s beautiful.